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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.